The Gers

In the first part of the 18C, Auch, now capital of the department, became the administrative centre of the Duchy of Gascony. This embraced a huge triangle west of Toulouse, from the Garonne River to the north, as far as the crest of the Pyrenees. Although Gascony ceased to exist in 1789, following the French Revolution, locals still regard themselves as Gascons. The Gascon hero Charles de Batz-Castlemore was the inspiration for the character of D'Artagnan, from Dumas' novel 'The Three Musketeers', and served under Louis XIV. He came from the pretty village of Lupiac, south of Au Chicot.

The Gers is a nature-lover's delight, wildlife including buzzards, owls, eagles, woodpeckers, boar, deer, and red squirrels. The purity of Gers air renders it ideal for painters and photographers too: colours are brighter, objects sharper. In many parts, little lanes travel across the ridges of hills, and on either side, as far as the eye can see, is a landscape of dream-like quality. You will unwind quickly in this lovely corner of France.

.....then you will be ready for some activity! First stop one of the local tourist offices, where English is spoken, for more precise information on the many night markets (operating in the summer), classical music concerts and other Gers happenings, plus opening hours for the attractions listed in the following pages. History lovers will find close to Au Chicot architectural gems of world class, some dating back to Gallo-Roman times. Usually small, (but perfectly formed!) they are easily explored before reaching little people's boredom threshold. Many are gratuit. Pause in your travels when you are hungry, and there are any number of restaurants, at lunchtime filled with locals and offering hearty Gascon food (duck in various forms, and foie gras the main specialties) at low cost. Or take a picnic. On the other hand, there is a surprising number of restaurants with a more varied and sophisticated menu to hand, when you are ready to push the boat out. As well as Armagnac, Gascony produces some very fine, characterful red wines, the best-known being Madiran, to try with your meal. A list of recommended restaurants, still growing, can be found at the house.

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